Tanbark Trail (Phoenicia)

BTW this is all in the first ¼ mile of the Tanbark Trail!

Intersection

Past the ledge system, you’ll come to the intersection with the main loop. It‘s right beside a small creek (which is not always flowing).

The sign here advises you to turn left. Though you can do the loop in either direction, the best effect comes from a clockwise loop as directed.

Hemlock Grove

After a short walk to a hemlock grove, you’ll come to this excellent sign. This is the best historical sign I’ve come across in the Catskills. It very quickly explains the history of the tanning industry from its origins in Europe, to the discovery of hemlock tannins which put the Catskills on the map of the world economy — leading to hides being imported from South America via Kingston’s Rondout area to be transported to Phoenicia for processing into leather.

Although extremely short-lived, the tanning era was enough to establish Phoenicia until the communities stabilized and other industries became viable.

I’ve often wondered how the first towns were established across America. This is how it was done.

Above this sign, the trail steepens again…

…and passes through this fun outcrop…

…before arriving at the first view: Phoenicia Overlook. The tallest peak along the ridge line to your right is Panther Mountain.

The trail is pretty well-blazed with blue reflective patches. But there was one spot where I couldn’t see any blazes and I went the wrong way. You can see on my embedded Gaia track above where I followed the wrong trail for a bit. There are loads of old woods roads in this area, criss-crossing and intersecting with each other. After a few hundred yards I reconnected with the blue trail and headed uphill.

The remainder of the walk is a straightforward woods walk. The upper section is mostly very flat and easy to cross. The landscape is pretty dramatic, with the steep sides of Tremper Mountain above you and the valley down below.

Descent

There are some steep sections coming down. If there’s ice or snow on the trail, you’ll need quality traction on your feet — microspikes at least. But it’s a pleasant, winding walk.

Eventually, you come down to a very obvious cliff called Grandview Ledge. Like all open ledges it’s a little dangerous, so be careful. But the views are really great.

Looking west, you’re once again looking over Phoenicia to Panther Mountain.

To the east, looking down Route 28, you can see Romer Mountain and Mount Pleasant.

Good drama in both directions, and well worth this steep, sketchy hike.

Descend to the intersection, head back along the base of the ledge system, and out through the Parish Field to your car.